Ocean Segments...

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Mavericks a week ago
 
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Mavericks a week ago
Looks like an easy drop...nice!

I only got to see Mavs in person once. This photo depicts an almost perfect day. Almost mushy for a big wave. Much different than the day Mark Foo died.
Yeah...I heard Mark didn’t drown because the wave was overly huge, but rather because he hit his head on the reef and was knocked unconscious? That’s what makes me the most fearful, but I can’t stand wearing a Gath.
 
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This part is the price ya have to pay
Oh my God... as an atheist I’ve had my most religious moments in times like these! I could tell you some stories where your lungs feel like they’re being ripped out. I have the biggest appreciation for the force of nature. She will forever be my God.
:Cheers: