Anybody here an electrician?

[Frood]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

 

[Breakfall]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

I’m only a hack electrician come electrician Googler. I do know that a lower rated fuse could never cause a fire hazard, it just won’t handle an overloaded circuit and short-out if anything??

 

[Frood]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

I’m only a hack electrician come electrician Googler. I do know that a lower rated fuse could never cause a fire hazard, it just won’t handle an overloaded circuit and short-out if anything??

That's what I thought but get into Reddit and opinions are all over the place....probably from people like us.

I've chatted with one mate who deals in wiring and another mate who deals in all things computer related electrical and they're at a loss to explain the Spec demands unless it's possibly...drum roll....Chinese made and false.

But, if I don't even draw or pump 15 amps at any one time, I'd like to know if I need to leave the assembly outside or in the house for testing...

One mate said definitely yes...

 

[Breakfall]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

I’m only a hack electrician come electrician Googler. I do know that a lower rated fuse could never cause a fire hazard, it just won’t handle an overloaded circuit and short-out if anything??

That's what I thought but get into Reddit and opinions are all over the place....probably from people like us.

I've chatted with one mate who deals in wiring and another mate who deals in all things computer related electrical and they're at a loss to explain the Spec demands unless it's possibly...drum roll....Chinese made and false.

But, if I don't even draw or pump 15 amps at any one time, I'd like to know if I need to leave the assembly outside or in the house for testing...

One mate said definitely yes...

Outside...lol.

 

[Frood]

The battery is big enough to burn the house down if it goes haywire. I get that I'm an electrical nonce, too...

I never said to anyone that I understood electricity or ever wanted to touch the stuff.

Bigger wire reduces that chance as far as I can work out, but if I can't work out the fuses and inbuilt system management shit, I fear frying stuff too.

Frying a 30 amp solar regulator is nothing... they can be had for 40-120 AUD...

I just need some guidance of wire loads, fuses, and how to set up a system that has no free accessories or plug ins.

 

[Breakfall]

The battery is big enough to burn the house down if it goes haywire. I get that I'm an electrical nonce, too...

I never said to anyone that I understood electricity or ever wanted to touch the stuff.

Bigger wire reduces that chance as far as I can work out, but if I can't work out the fuses and inbuilt system management shit, I fear frying stuff too.

Frying a 30 amp solar regulator is nothing... they can be had for 40-120 AUD...

I just need some guidance of wire loads, fuses, and how to set up a system that has no free accessories or plug ins.

In all honesty I started wiring up at age 6. My ol’ man is hopeless with handyman gigs. Wired and changed plugs before I was even double digits. I could tell you some shocking stories. Once had an exposed 3 phase plug stuck on my hand until I managed to flick it off. The burns were so deep in my fingers that the scar tissue was popping out and migrating to the surface for months. But I still do all my electrical work. It it shorts...go bigger! Lol

 

[Frood]

The battery is big enough to burn the house down if it goes haywire. I get that I'm an electrical nonce, too...

I never said to anyone that I understood electricity or ever wanted to touch the stuff.

Bigger wire reduces that chance as far as I can work out, but if I can't work out the fuses and inbuilt system management shit, I fear frying stuff too.

Frying a 30 amp solar regulator is nothing... they can be had for 40-120 AUD...

I just need some guidance of wire loads, fuses, and how to set up a system that has no free accessories or plug ins.

In all honesty I started wiring up at age 6. My ol’ man is hopeless with handyman gigs. Wired and changed plugs before I was even double digits. I could tell you some shocking stories. Once had an exposed 3 phase plug stuck on my hand until I managed to flick it off. The burns were so deep in my fingers that the scar tissue was popping out and migrating to the surface for months. But I still do all my electrical work. It it shorts...go bigger! Lol

I wired 12v accessories to my 1960's car and gapped and changed my plugs... that was easy shit...

...these days, I'm totally adrift.

I'm a modern electrics fuckwit except one thing... I'm super cautious.

 

[Breakfall]

The battery is big enough to burn the house down if it goes haywire. I get that I'm an electrical nonce, too...

I never said to anyone that I understood electricity or ever wanted to touch the stuff.

Bigger wire reduces that chance as far as I can work out, but if I can't work out the fuses and inbuilt system management shit, I fear frying stuff too.

Frying a 30 amp solar regulator is nothing... they can be had for 40-120 AUD...

I just need some guidance of wire loads, fuses, and how to set up a system that has no free accessories or plug ins.

In all honesty I started wiring up at age 6. My ol’ man is hopeless with handyman gigs. Wired and changed plugs before I was even double digits. I could tell you some shocking stories. Once had an exposed 3 phase plug stuck on my hand until I managed to flick it off. The burns were so deep in my fingers that the scar tissue was popping out and migrating to the surface for months. But I still do all my electrical work. It it shorts...go bigger! Lol

I wired 12v accessories to my 1960's car and gapped and changed my plugs... that was easy shit...

...these days, I'm totally adrift.

I'm a modern electrics fuckwit except one thing... I'm super cautious.

Better to be over cautious than under cautious absolutely. But just glean some more good advice, it’s a good feeling when it all just clicks into place at the end.
I just installed another bidet in my other toilet so if I day-shit over the weekend, I don’t have to necessarily shower after the damage. It’s an OCD thing...I feel awesome. The jet of cold water is fucking chilly in winter butt!

 

[Seamajor]

I’m a master Electrician/Engineer, for any application

 

[Frood]

I’m a master Electrician/Engineer, for any application

So, what do you think?

 

[Seamajor]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

Are panels adjacent to batteries or far away?
Regarding the manufactures specs, will it void any guarantee or warranty if you deviate from instructions?
As you know electronics and computer based equipment can be sensitive.
Yes #10 wire is good for 30 amps @ 120 volts. Your set up is 12V, 48V? A lot changes when voltages do.
Maybe you you should have a regular installer have a look?

 

[Frood]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

Are panels adjacent to batteries or far away?
Regarding the manufactures specs, will it void any guarantee or warranty if you deviate from instructions?
As you know electronics and computer based equipment can be sensitive.
Yes #10 wire is good for 30 amps @ 120 volts. Your set up is 12V, 48V? A lot changes when voltages do.
Maybe you you should have a regular installer have a look?

Panel is about 10-12 feet away. System is 12v..

Panel at best fuels 10-12 amps in full sun.

The solar controller literature says it can handle 380 watts.

I will not pay for a learning experience...

 

[Phester0boyle]

Chinese solar.?
~lifts up....*braaaap

 

[Murdy]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

The wire that comes from panels to the controller is DC voltage. The controller requires 30 amps of AC voltage.

It’s always best to go by manufacturer specs. If they differ and something goes wrong with the system, they will blame the wire size. Any warranty will be null and void.

Yes, it might be oversized… but it’s better to have more than less.

If you put the lower blade fuse in the battery terminal, you run the run risk of blowing the fuse faster. It’s always best to size things accordingly.

The other part for the battery terminal he would have to see.

 

[Breakfall]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

The wire that comes from panels to the controller is DC voltage. The controller requires 30 amps of AC voltage.

It’s always best to go by manufacturer specs. If they differ and something goes wrong with the system, they will blame the wire size. Any warranty will be null and void.

Yes, it might be oversized… but it’s better to have more than less.

If you put the lower blade fuse in the battery terminal, you run the run risk of blowing the fuse faster. It’s always best to size things accordingly.

The other part for the battery terminal he would have to see.

I’m impressed gurl!

 

[Murdy]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

The wire that comes from panels to the controller is DC voltage. The controller requires 30 amps of AC voltage.

It’s always best to go by manufacturer specs. If they differ and something goes wrong with the system, they will blame the wire size. Any warranty will be null and void.

Yes, it might be oversized… but it’s better to have more than less.

If you put the lower blade fuse in the battery terminal, you run the run risk of blowing the fuse faster. It’s always best to size things accordingly.

The other part for the battery terminal he would have to see.

I’m impressed gurl!

So am I. He is a former navy seal turned general contractor and has his own business doing commercial builds from the ground up.

 

[Breakfall]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

The wire that comes from panels to the controller is DC voltage. The controller requires 30 amps of AC voltage.

It’s always best to go by manufacturer specs. If they differ and something goes wrong with the system, they will blame the wire size. Any warranty will be null and void.

Yes, it might be oversized… but it’s better to have more than less.

If you put the lower blade fuse in the battery terminal, you run the run risk of blowing the fuse faster. It’s always best to size things accordingly.

The other part for the battery terminal he would have to see.

I’m impressed gurl!

So am I. He is a former navy seal turned general contractor and has his own business doing commercial builds from the ground up.

Awesome…I know who to ask one day. I’m buying some property soon and will be plonking down a kit home, and then going off grid.

 

[Murdy]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

The wire that comes from panels to the controller is DC voltage. The controller requires 30 amps of AC voltage.

It’s always best to go by manufacturer specs. If they differ and something goes wrong with the system, they will blame the wire size. Any warranty will be null and void.

Yes, it might be oversized… but it’s better to have more than less.

If you put the lower blade fuse in the battery terminal, you run the run risk of blowing the fuse faster. It’s always best to size things accordingly.

The other part for the battery terminal he would have to see.

I’m impressed gurl!

So am I. He is a former navy seal turned general contractor and has his own business doing commercial builds from the ground up.

Awesome…I know whom to ask one day. I’m buying some property soon and will be plonking down a kit home, and then going off grid.

He specializes in electricity. I call him Sparky lol

We are trying to do the same thing here. We gotta rip the roof of this bitch to do it tho.

 

[Breakfall]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

The wire that comes from panels to the controller is DC voltage. The controller requires 30 amps of AC voltage.

It’s always best to go by manufacturer specs. If they differ and something goes wrong with the system, they will blame the wire size. Any warranty will be null and void.

Yes, it might be oversized… but it’s better to have more than less.

If you put the lower blade fuse in the battery terminal, you run the run risk of blowing the fuse faster. It’s always best to size things accordingly.

The other part for the battery terminal he would have to see.

I’m impressed gurl!

So am I. He is a former navy seal turned general contractor and has his own business doing commercial builds from the ground up.

Awesome…I know whom to ask one day. I’m buying some property soon and will be plonking down a kit home, and then going off grid.

He specializes in electricity. I call him Sparky lol

We are trying to do the same thing here. We gotta rip the roof of this bitch to do it tho.

All electricians are called Sparky here in Oz! Lol

 

[RANCIDMILKO ™ ®©]

I use the wire stripper to cut my nails

 

[Murdy]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

The wire that comes from panels to the controller is DC voltage. The controller requires 30 amps of AC voltage.

It’s always best to go by manufacturer specs. If they differ and something goes wrong with the system, they will blame the wire size. Any warranty will be null and void.

Yes, it might be oversized… but it’s better to have more than less.

If you put the lower blade fuse in the battery terminal, you run the run risk of blowing the fuse faster. It’s always best to size things accordingly.

The other part for the battery terminal he would have to see.

I’m impressed gurl!

So am I. He is a former navy seal turned general contractor and has his own business doing commercial builds from the ground up.

Awesome…I know whom to ask one day. I’m buying some property soon and will be plonking down a kit home, and then going off grid.

He specializes in electricity. I call him Sparky lol

We are trying to do the same thing here. We gotta rip the roof of this bitch to do it tho.

All electricians are called Sparky here in Oz! Lol

My grands were from England, and it’s the same there hehehe

 

[Murdy]

I use the wire stripper to cut my nails

You can either climb trees with your nails or like living on the edge!

 

[Breakfall]

I've got a concern with wire gauge, rated fuse (inline), and possibly dodgy specs on a solar controller (Chinese)...

The controller is 30 amp as is the mains powered smart charger. The solar side of it (12v) will never get more than 180 watts even in perfect sun...so less than well half of the 30 amps.

I wanted short lengths of wire (300 mm or less) with Anderson plugs pre-assembled off the shelf for easy plug and go between either the smart charger or the solar panel (either or, not at the same time).

The smart charger AND the cheap controller says 6AWG in the specs. 6AWG is a shitload more amperage than required for 30 amps..

I could only find 8AWG pre-made assemblies, and the one with the Anderson connections and inline blade fuse comes with a 60 amp rated one. Couldn't buy a smaller assembly.

I have gathered that bigger wire gauge is OK for lower power situations, but I have got mixed messages about fuse ratings.

Can I safely drop a lower blade fuse into the inline fuse holder or is it even necessary? Is it a fire hazard?

My battery is a LiFePo4 rated at 200 amps and with an internal BMS system. The solar controller has safety protocols for under/over charging and shorts. The mains charger is blade fused.

Any advice about the wiring/fusing off the battery terminal would be appreciated...

The wire that comes from panels to the controller is DC voltage. The controller requires 30 amps of AC voltage.

It’s always best to go by manufacturer specs. If they differ and something goes wrong with the system, they will blame the wire size. Any warranty will be null and void.

Yes, it might be oversized… but it’s better to have more than less.

If you put the lower blade fuse in the battery terminal, you run the run risk of blowing the fuse faster. It’s always best to size things accordingly.

The other part for the battery terminal he would have to see.

I’m impressed gurl!

So am I. He is a former navy seal turned general contractor and has his own business doing commercial builds from the ground up.

Awesome…I know whom to ask one day. I’m buying some property soon and will be plonking down a kit home, and then going off grid.

He specializes in electricity. I call him Sparky lol

We are trying to do the same thing here. We gotta rip the roof of this bitch to do it tho.

All electricians are called Sparky here in Oz! Lol

My grands were from England, and it’s the same there hehehe

Mine were from England and Ireland…but I learned more phrases from my Pommy Grandfather.

 

[RANCIDMILKO ™ ®©]

I use the wire stripper to cut my nails

You can either climb trees with your nails or like living on the edge!

You learn woanderfool thangs on the youtubes

 

[Breakfall]

I use the wire stripper to cut my nails

You can either climb trees with your nails or like living on the edge!

You learn woanderfool thangs on the youtubes

Side-cutters! Hahahahahaaa…you must have some gnarly toenails bro!

 

[RANCIDMILKO ™ ®©]

I use the wire stripper to cut my nails

You can either climb trees with your nails or like living on the edge!

You learn woanderfool thangs on the youtubes

Side-cutters! Hahahahahaaa…you must have some gnarly toenails bro!

ROFLMAO I just use a big ass trimmer

 

[Breakfall]

I use the wire stripper to cut my nails

You can either climb trees with your nails or like living on the edge!

You learn woanderfool thangs on the youtubes

Side-cutters! Hahahahahaaa…you must have some gnarly toenails bro!

ROFLMAO I just use a big ass trimmer

I have super fast-growing nails, which makes them quite soft. If I let them grow too much, they catch on my surfboard wax and bend back on themselves. Very painful and annoying.

 

[RANCIDMILKO ™ ®©]

I use the wire stripper to cut my nails

You can either climb trees with your nails or like living on the edge!

You learn woanderfool thangs on the youtubes

Side-cutters! Hahahahahaaa…you must have some gnarly toenails bro!

ROFLMAO I just use a big ass trimmer

I have super fast-growing nails, which makes them quite soft. If I let them grow too much, they catch on my surfboard wax and bend back on themselves. Very painful and annoying.

Probably the salt water

Mine are hard as hell, I have to keep them short or I might cut my ankles sleeping

 

[Admin.]

I use the wire stripper to cut my nails

You can either climb trees with your nails or like living on the edge!

You learn woanderfool thangs on the youtubes

I was going to comment, that back when I once had toe nail fungi, I used dikes to trim the big toe.

 

[Lokmar]

20 amp fuse.